It’s the late 1970s, about half-way into the fifteen years I’d endure living in the pristine, isolating terrain of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. My husband and I had moved here to realize his dream of becoming a building contractor. The several ski resorts in the area proved to be fertile ground and business was going well. The other aspects of our life, not so much.
After yet another petty disagreement, I got into my car and headed out onto Powderhorn Road. I drove through the ski resort noting the ski lifts swaying in the wind and the ski chalets now vacant in the late summer. An eerie sight indicative of my recurring thoughts of my life in this unforgiving place.
From there, I turned onto Black River Road, a small county pathway; the canopy of trees gave the appearance of entering a cave. And that’s how it felt as I struggled for some sense of certainty.
It was only a twelve-mile drive to Lake Superior. It was late afternoon and as expected Black River Harbor, part of the Ottawa National Forest, was deserted. The hikers, campers and visitors had gone home for the day. I was happy to have my favorite spot all to myself.
It was only a short walk from the parking lot to the suspension bridge. Flowing under the bridge were the waters of the Black River, swelled by the gushes from Rainbow Falls as it emptied into Lake Superior.
Stepping off the bridge and following a rugged, stone path that leads to the lake, I saw the waves and whitecaps in the distance. As the locals say: it was an active day on the lake. From here, Lake Superior looked like an ocean. It often acted like an ocean.
I’ve marveled at the wonders of Lake Superior at Little Girls Point, at the 21 miles of beach near Porcupine Mountain, from Isle Royale, Marquette and Houghton Hancock. But nothing compared with Black River Harbor.
Walking farther, I finally reached the sandy beach. Nestled there were the rocks. If you searched long enough, you could find some agates. I watched the horizon for the passing of an iron ore freighter most commonly heading to or from Duluth. No luck today.
Herring gulls swooped everywhere with their distinctive and repeated calls that signal courtship, territorial disputes or nest selection. Also called a “choking call” because the birds deliver it while leaning forward, head down.
Their furtive refrain and this regal body of water invited serious thoughts. When do the petty arguments become too much and hard decisions cloud the horizon? I’d be watching for other signs.
After sunset, as I walked back over the bridge to my car, my little world had eclipsed into darkness. Driving toward the strife of home, peace and calmness withdrew from the pitch darkness of this remote two-lane country road.
Off to my left, I saw the faint shadows of a campfire back in the woods. How nice I thought; its city people taking advantage of the last few months of our mild summer. That’s before the lake effect snows of the majestic Lake Superior lead the way to another long, hard winter.
As I came around a slight curve, suddenly, my headlights revealed eight or ten lily-white butts pointing back at me as I passed. I was being mooned! Mooned by the campers standing in a row on the edge of the road. As I left them behind, I heard echoes of their hoots and howls. I laughed too. Maybe that’s the sign I’d been looking for!